a Love Note to Mexico City
and all the places I ate, drank, and danced at in CDMX
It is not hard to fall in love with Mexico City. Within hours of landing in CDMX I found myself catching up with friends at a long, natural wine filled lunch at Rosetta. Afterwards, we strolled through the vibrant streets of Roma, canopies of trees overhead and a constant warm breeze in the air. Boutiques, concept stores, vintage shops, bakeries, wine bars, and street food carts lined the bustling streets.
Mexico City has something for everyone. The street food is just as sought after and impressive as $200/person fine-dining establishments. The markets range from traditional to organic to artisan, all carrying goods that I tried to discreetly tuck into my shoes on my flight home to California. The parks are lush and expansive, a setting well-suited for avid readers, salsa dancers, and everyone in between.
Creativity and inspiration seep from every crevasse of Mexico City, where I found myself frequently caught in the dialogue between the past and present. In the Anahuacalli Museum, a volcanic rock-temple built by Diego Rivera to house his pre-Hispanic figurines, I found connection between Rivera’s murals and Mexican artifacts. In M.N. Roy, a former communist leader’s house turned church-like nightclub, modernity gels with the relics of Mexico’s secretive past. In Luis Barragan’s architectural gems, Casa Pedegral and Casa Luis Barragan, I instinctually questioned the nude Modigliani paintings beside crucifixes, and realized how incompatible my modern conception of religion and spirituality are with progressive ideas. The entanglement of tradition and history with rapid modernization makes Mexico City a breeding ground for new and reconceived ideas.
Mexico City reignited my love for creative cooking and appreciation of local ingredients. Despite getting a mild case of food poisoning and having to forgo a night of dancing and drinking, I made it my mission to try as much food in Mexico City as possible. Sometimes I referenced a master google map I made using three different maps from friends, online guides such as Eater and Infatuation, and anecdotal recommendations. More often, though, I found myself stumbling into random establishments - following the smell of bubbling street meat, cups of juicy mango, or the sound of a camote whistle. Here are some of the highlights:
Restaurants
Tetetlan
If you can’t get a coveted appointment for one of the Luis Barragan house tours, then going to Tetetlan is the next best thing. Possibly even better because it includes a delicious meal. Located in the outskirts of CDMX, in the bougie suburb of Pedegral, this restaurant/community center was originally Luis Barragan’s horse stable and was updated by the art collector who lives next door in Casa Pedegral. Tetetlan is not just a restaurant. It is a coffee shop, artisanal store, yoga studio, library, and listening gallery. I visited Tetetlan twice and even did a yoga class in the studio.
On the way to Tetetlan our Uber was stuck in intense traffic, leaving me feeling antsy and tired. On par with Luis Barragan’s emotional architecture, stepping into Tetetlan made me feel instantly calm, relaxed, and curious. The glass floors allow diners to look down on a forest of ferns growing out of the area’s local purple-black volcanic rock. From the large skylights, warm light pours into the dining room and exposed kitchen. It is truly breathtaking - but manages to escape any “instagramyness” that would accompany a space like this in the U.S.
The menu at Tetetlan offers updated Mesoamerican food with sustainable ingredients as well as modern comforts (matcha, pasta, green juice). This was the first time I tried Pulque, an alcoholic drink popular among the Mexica people, that Tetetlan had seasonal flavors of. The pork belly taco, heirloom esquites, and smoked Merlin tacos were also delicious.
Expendio de Maiz Sin Nombre
I stumbled upon Expendio de Maiz Sin Nombre on my way out to a bar with a friend. All of the seating is outdoors. The entire “inside” of the space is an open kitchen, allowing diners and passerbys to see various meats roasting over open flames and chefs delicately slicing vegetables. On the particular night I first walked by, diners were crowded around a man grilling skewers of meat outside. It was energetic, mysterious, and fun.
I didn’t end up returning to dine until my final day in Mexico City. In the middle of the day, on a Tuesday, two hours before my flight, I returned for lunch by myself. When I arrived the waiter told me there was already a wait and that it was cash only. He took my name and I rushed to the nearest ATM to get cash out. About twenty minutes later I got a phone call that my table was ready. After being seated at a picnic table outside the waiter explained that they had no menu, they simply keep bringing you food until you say stop. I got three dishes - all were some variation of a taco or toastada. My favorite was a braised pork tostada with melted oaxacan cheese, roasted sweet plantain, avocado, and herbs.
Other restaurants I dined at:
Pujol: defining CDMX restaurant, chic but not stuffy dining experience.
Rosetta: beautiful lunch spot in Roma that gives Italian Villa. Amazing chicken liver pappardelle.
Entremar: same menu as Contramar but less pretentious. Fresh aguachile and tasty tuna tostada with frizzled leeks.
Botanico: very enchanting secret garden home turned restaurant. recommend mezcal and mussels in lemongrass broth with fries.
Comedor Jacinta: good, standard Mexican fare in Polanco that isn’t too pricy.
San Angel Inn: a former monastery with enchanting courtyard turned inn and restaurant. Food isn’t to die for but ambiance is worth a visit.
Next time: Azul, Masala y Maiz, Canopia, El Tigre Silencioso, Contramar, Meroma, Em, Mari Gold, Quintonil
Cafes & Bakeries
Quentin
Quentin was my favorite coffee shop in Mexico City. The service was quick. The people were friendly. The songs played were frequently shazamed. The pastries were fun and satisfying (a buttery biscuit with passion fruit curd was my favorite). And the coffee was both delicious and from Mexico. There are multiple locations that have great working spaces but the one I frequented was just a take-away window with a few chairs outside.
Other cafes & bakeries I ate and drank at:
Velvu Bakery: a Roma bakery with outlets, wifi, indoor/outdoor seating, and decent pastries.
Niddo Cafe: a Polanco cafe that is very instagrammy but also has good coffees, cookies, other pastries, as well as healthy & international lunch items.
El Moro: chain churro establishment with many varieties of hot/cold chocolates and delicious dipping sauces.
Super Cope: a cute cafe/natural good store hybrid in Condesa.
Panaderia Rosetta: very hyped spot but well worth it. Go weekday mornings to avoid the line. Rol de Guayaba (cheese + guava = <3) and Bollo de queso were my favorites.
Jarilla: a great Roma cafe that has a few sweets for sale as well as natural wines and artisanal products for sale.
Next time: Patisserie Dominique
Brunch & Casual Spots
Ojo de Agua
After a night of mild sickness from accidentally drinking tap water I was not feeling appetized by a greasy street taco. Ojo de Agua perfectly soothed by healing gut. The interior is airy, filled with plants, and even features a little fruit and vegetable market stand. Their juice menu is twice as long as the food menu. The fare is produce forward — offering a long list of salads topped with roasted salmon and avocado, grain bowls, acai bowls, sandwiches, and light Mexican fare.
Other brunch & casual spots I ate and drank at:
Lalo!: great brunch spot that is pretty hyped. Great chilaquiles.
Molino “El Pujol”: great spot in Condesa for a vegetarian snack. Uses interesting ingredients (like corn fungus) but doesn’t overcomplicate.
Comida Corrida “La Zarza”: little hole in the wall with great pozole and friendly staff.
El Cardenal: very traditional brunch spot. love the server that walks around with a tray of warm pastries.
Frutas Prohibidas: a classic office lunch spot. similar to Ojo de Agua but faster and a bit less health-focused.
Next time: Abarrotes Delirio, El Sella
Taquerias
Los Cocuyos
If unidentifiable meats bubbling in a giant vat are your thing, you must visit Los Cocuyos. Los Cocuyos is a famous, 24/7 Taqueria and my personal favorite taco in Mexico City. Before getting your $1 taco, though, you must walk through the chaotic gauntlet of downtown Mexico - streets packed with people and what seemed like endless speaker stores blasting music to boast their volume. I had never been so excited to sit on a plastic stool and munch on a salty, fatty taco.
The Los Cocuyos method is simple. The meats are cooked in a big vat filled with lard, chopped up on a fat-stained cutting board, then shoved into a corn tortilla with cilantro, onion, and lime on the side. My favorite was the Al Pastor (so juicy!), second best to the Suadero (brisket).
Other Taqueria’s I ate at
El Turix: hole in the wall taco shop in Polanco. Juicy meats. Cash only.
Orinoco: a famous taco shop with locations in Roma/Condesa, each with a constant line. Al Pastor is my favorite with melted cheese or “costra.”
El Califa: very good rib-eye tacos. eat late night.
Carnitas El Azul: hole in the wall taqueria with very succulent carnitas.
Tacos Los Alexis: a more “creative” taqueria. Sorta creepy tacquero tho.
Pato Manila: peking duck tacos.
Next time: Taqueria Gabriel, Taqueria El Greco, Con Vista al Mar Roma, Tacos Rueben’s, Carinito Tacos, Tizne Tacomotora, Tacqueria Los Parados, Los 3 Reyes
Street Food
Mercado el 100
When you think of the classic Mexico City open-air market, you might picture a busy market with red plastic canopies overhead and vendors verbally coaxing customers to their stand. Mercado el 100 is nothing like that. It boasts a curated selection of artisanal goods, ranging from Baja Kelp and Mexican vanilla beans to organic Spirulina powder and local goat cheeses, in addition to fresh produce and made-to-order pizzas and tacos. I bought salsa macha, dried native flowers, and a conjego tinga taco with nopales salsa. I also bought a beautiful molcajete that was made out of local volcanic rock. Sadly this was taken from me at airport security. I cried.
Other street food
Esquites: yummy street corn.
Camote: whistling little street cart that steams sweet potatoes and plantains. topped with cinnamon and sweetened condensed milk.
Next time: more random street things.
Bars:
Club San Luis: really fun old-school saloon with live music and a great dance floor. Lots of twirling. Try to dance with someone that knows the steps.
Cafe de Nadie: high-fi bar in Roma.
Baltra Bar: intimate cocktail bar, cool crowd of people.
Departamento: fun multi-level bar that always seems to be buzzing. top level has an open roof and middle level is sorta living room vibes.
M.N.Roy: former communist’s leaders home turned small club in Roma. very bunker-esc and only fun after 2.a.m. fun music and smoking mezzanine but mostly international crowd.
Next time: Ticuchi, Leonor, Tokyo Bar, Limantour
congrats if you’ve actually made it to the end of this very very long email (I appreciate U). If you’ve been to any of these places please send me your thoughts :)